Crown Jewel of the Caribbean 11.0

Punta Espada Golf Course

My latest golf trip took me to play Punta Espada, the Crown Jewel of the Caribbean, located in the Dominican Republic. This spectacular course lies near the city of Punta Cana, within the 30,000-acre Cap Cana development, and is part of the luxurious St. Regis Cap Cana Resort, where my wife and I were treated like royalty for our stay.

Cap Cana

Punta Espada was designed by Jack Nicklaus and is arguably the second most recognized of the 400+ courses he has built worldwide. While Muirfield Village will undoubtedly be remembered as Nicklaus’ enduring legacy, thanks to the Memorial Tournament, Punta Espada may be regarded by future generations as his finest work.

The course was originally the brainchild of the Cap Cana Village Council, whose president, Ricardo Hazoury, proclaimed at the time: “Our greatest wish is to present the best course in the world to all golf lovers, to be designed by the best (designer) in the world.”

The Council gifted Nicklaus over 6,000 acres to “let his imagination and creativity run free.”

Punta Espada officially opened on November 8, 2006, with Nicklaus personally unveiling this oceanfront masterpiece. Reflecting on the project, he announced:

“Cap Cana’s topography represented a challenge in design, but one we embraced, as the terrain also created an ideal scenario for a golf course that is unique and should appeal to anyone who has a passion for the game. With the relationship Punta Espada enjoys in its natural surroundings, almost half the holes play to or along the coastline, and with views of the Caribbean on all but a few holes...this is a stunning backdrop for a golf course.”

The course stretches for over a mile of open coastline, with eight holes playing directly beside or across ocean coves. Most of the remaining holes still offer views of the sea from the tee box, fairway, or green. Notably, Punta Espada was the first course in the Dominican Republic to be grassed entirely with Seashore Paspalum, a salt-tolerant turf that retains a vibrant green hue and thrives even in coastal conditions.

Punta Espada

My day at Punta Espada began with an early breakfast at the St. Regis, followed by a leisurely par-4 walk to the Clubhouse and Pro Shop. We checked in ahead of our tee time and, by a stroke of good fortune, were paired with Jim, allowing us to head out early. When I found out Jim was from Dallas, Texas, and, like me, a die-hard Cowboys fan, I thought to myself, the golf gods must be smiling today. The Starter introduced our caddie, a cheerful fellow who went by the unforgettable name “Quack-Quack,” and with that, our adventure began.

Larry, Quack-Quack, Jim

As you stand on the first tee box, you're immediately struck by the immense effort it took to shape this course. What appears to be a rocky cliff in the photo is actually the remnants of an underwater coral reef. This striking formation reveals the depth to which Nicklaus had to excavate to reach a suitable sand base; a testament to the ingenuity and precision required to build this golf marvel.

Hole #1 Coral Cliffs

From the second tee box, you’re greeted with your first truly breathtaking view. This par-5 stretches toward the beach, with the elevated tee perched atop a coral cliff overlooking the ocean and the St. Regis Resort below. At 611 yards from the back tees, it plays directly into the prevailing ocean wind.

If this is your first look at the course with the ocean in the background, it will simply take your breath away. Fortunately, we arrived a day early, and by staying at the St Regis, we were able to walk a few of the ocean-hugging holes to get over the OMG factor.

Hole #2 Fairway

As a self-confessed wine snob, I’d be remiss not to point out the grapevines lining every fairway. For those in the know, the thick, gnarled trunks suggest an age of 50 years or more; these veterans of a former vineyard are now loving the tropical breezes of Punta Espada. They’re a charming touch, adding beauty and a hint of nostalgia; though, for us winos, they spark more than a few happy thoughts.

Old Grape Vines Line the Fairways

The 3rd hole is a short par 4 and the first to run entirely along the beach. It’s also your introduction to just how much the ocean breeze can toy with a golf ball in flight. For most of my round, the wind was a manageable 12 mph—enough that my “windage adjustment” was simply to aim at the beach. But when it’s blowing 20+ mph, locals say you’ll need to aim out over the ocean itself. Now that’s a nerve-tester. And if you think the wind won’t mess with your putting, think again, you’ll be reading both the slope of the green and the breeze, which can nudge a long putt a few inches off line

Tee Box Punta Espada Hole #3                                               Green

The 4^th hole is a very intimidating par 3 requiring a 150-yard carry over a small pond-like cove created by the ocean.  This hole is the first of more tee shots to come that will require over-the-ocean carries. The cove appears to act as a basin to catch all the seaweed washed ashore.

Hole #4 Tee & Green

Hole 5 plays downwind, away from the ocean and back toward the rugged coral cliffs. It was on this hole where, after I spanked my tee shot about 250 yards (thanks to the wind), I earned the name Toro the Bull from my caddy Quack-Quack.

The green is guarded by classic Nicklaus bunkers and set dramatically against the cliffside backdrop. It’s a beautiful setting in its own right, but what made it unforgettable was the appearance of my friend Chester, the resident iguana (yes, I named him). Chester emerged from his little cave in the cliffs to check us out, quickly realized we weren’t carrying snacks, and then lazily strolled back to his favorite sun-warmed rock for a nap.

Chester the Molester

Hole 6 is another stunning par 5, stretching up to 613 yards as it plays back toward the ocean. Once again, Nicklaus takes advantage of the elevated cliffs as a tee box, offering a dramatic view of the fairway below. From the tee, the sparkling ocean frames the horizon, while expansive waste bunkers run along both sides of the fairway, demanding both precision and strategy.

Hole #6 Fairway

The 7th hole is a short par 3, playing just 125 yards. On paper, it looks like the easiest hole on the course, but Nicklaus made sure to surround it with his trademark bunkers, ready to gobble up any wayward shot. I, of course, forgot to factor in the helping ocean breeze and launched my tee shot straight over the green and into a cavernous bunker. Fortunately, I managed a decent sand shot back onto the green and two-putted for bogey; a textbook case of turning a “should-be birdie” into a “lucky bogey.”

Hole #7 Tee & Green

The 8th hole turns back into the stiff ocean wind, playing out toward a green that rests serenely along the beach. Off the tee, the shot calls for a low, controlled draw...both to pierce through the breeze and to steer clear of the massive transition hazard lurking down the entire right side of the fairway, all the way to the green. It’s as beautiful as it is demanding.

Hole #8 Tee & Fairway

Hole 9 is another breathtaking masterpiece. From its perch high atop the coral cliffs, the tee offers a sweeping panorama that feels almost surreal as you gaze down across the rolling 9th fairway, past the driving range and the 10th, and then out to what seems like an endless thousand miles of shimmering ocean. Rising proudly in the distance, the six-story St. Regis Hotel stands like a sentinel above it all, presiding over the course and the miles of coastline beyond. It’s a view that lingers long after the shot is struck.

9th Tee Box and Fairway

After stopping at the oceanfront clubhouse to reload with refreshments, we headed to the 10th tee box, where you’re once again challenged by the ocean running the entire length of the left side, a massive waste area in the middle, and the driving range along the right. Anything less than a perfectly straight tee shot is muy no bueno. Fortunately, I somehow managed another 250-yard drive and earned another, Toro, from Quack-Quack. I was able to thread the needle with my drive and went cruising down the fairway, thinking, I dodged a bullet there. But Nicklaus wasn't finished with me yet. The second shot demands a sharp right turn over a lake to reach an island green framed by sand. This 10th green is a visual masterpiece; one that demands nothing short of perfection to hold it.

Tee Box 10th Hole Green

Hole 11 is a long par 4, playing downwind and away from the beach. At first glance, you think, finally, a little help from the breeze. But this is a Nicklaus design, so of course, there’s a trap waiting. Sure enough, a massive fairway bunker sits there like an outfielder with a catcher’s mitt, just begging for my ball...and naturally, I obliged. The end result? Yet another double bogey, and Jack chalks up one more quiet victory against me.

Hole 11 Fairway bunker

The 12th hole is a beastly par 5, stretching nearly 500 yards from the Old Man’s tee and made all the more punishing by that relentless, now 15 mph headwind. By the time you finally reach the green, which is a sprawling expanse that feels like it covers half the property, you’re greeted with yet another distraction. Perched along the edge, it practically dares you with: “Go ahead, try not to look at the ocean.” Spoiler alert...you will.

12th Green

Moving on to Hole 13, you arrive at the most intimidating par 3 I have ever witnessed. Walking to the tee box, all your senses come alive. First comes the salty fragrance of the ocean. Then, with the last step up your eyes are met with a view worthy of a Van Gogh painting. And finally, as I addressed the ball, the only sound I heard was the relentless crashing of waves below, taunting me with, Go for it!

Yes, it’s a par 3, and yes, in the photo below I’m holding a driver. We played it from the back tees: 250 yards, all carry, to a peninsula green jutting into the ocean. Punta Espada means “Tip of the Sword” in Spanish, and if the course is the sword, the 13th green is surely its razor-sharp tip.

For the record, despite aiming for the bailout trap on the right, I promptly snap-hooked my tee shot into a watery grave. Legend has it, Jack birdied this hole from the same tee on opening day.

13th Tee Box - 250 Yards to Green

At Hole 14, Jack finally seems to ease up. It’s a short par 4, playing downwind from the ocean and practically begging to be a birdie hole, for anyone but me, of course. I managed to salvage a par only after badly misreading my first putt, then bailing myself out with a nervy 10-footer. Not exactly how Nicklaus drew it up, but I’ll take it.

Hole 14 Looking Back Down Fairway at the Ocean

Arriving at the 15th, I thought, finally—a par 5 downwind. Maybe my shot at a birdie....... Toro time!. After striping my second shot into the fairway, I strutted up to the ball only to find Jack’s little surprise waiting: a 125-yard approach with nothing but sand, water, and green. Pick one, he seemed to say. Miraculously, I picked the green—hit it solid, two-putted, and walked away with par. Pumped up, I thanked Jack. And for once, I actually meant it.

Tee Box 15th Hole Green

Another memorable sight on the course (besides Chester the iguana) was the bent palm tree beside the 15th green. Clearly knocked over years ago by hurricane-force winds, it somehow refused to give up, settling just a foot off the ground before stubbornly bending back upward to reclaim its reach for the sky. Resilient, determined, and a little unconventional, it’s hard not to admire it. My photographer, best friend, and wife of 46 years, Katherine, joined me for a much-needed rest on the tree’s natural bench, making the moment as special as the hole itself.

The Bent Palm

Hole 16 was a long par 3, playing 183 yards from my “Old Guys” tee. It was one of those holes that makes you want to come back and play it again. I pulled out a 4-iron and, with its final gasp of momentum, the ball somehow rolled onto the green about 20 feet from the flag. My trusty caddie, who was introduced simply as Quack-Quack, is pictured holding the flag below. To my surprise, I sank the putt for a souvenir birdie at Punta Espada. Immediately, Quack-Quack erupted into a full duck impression—quacking and flapping his arms. Only then did I truly understand the origin of his name.

Hole #16 Green and Birdie Putt

The tee shot on Hole 17 is the second most intimidating on the course. From the box, you are almost thinking, where did the golf course go? With palm trees blocking any thought of bailing out left, the hole design forces you to take that gut-wrenching leap of faith and aim straight out into the ocean, praying for a draw and the helping wind. I’m sure that comes naturally to Nicklaus, but for anyone with a fade or slice, it’s pure doom.

For once, though, the hole played right into my hands. Thanks to my usual high draw and a friendly right-to-left ocean breeze, my ball sailed true and dropped perfectly into the middle of the fairway, 225 yards out and on dry land. Intimidating? Absolutely. but for once, Jack’s design and my swing actually agreed.

Hole #17 Tee Box

The 18th hole continues the oceanside journey begun on the 17th. The hole plays directly down the beach back towards the clubhouse. The ocean completely blocks out the right side of the fairway, but there is a bailout area on the left, albeit another transition hazard. Once again, my draw aimed at the beach floated gently back into the fairway and was rewarded with my final, Toro.

Tee Box & Fairway Hole 18 Green

At my age, by the time I limp up to the 18th green, I’m usually running on fumes and already plotting my post-round adult beverage. But not this day. Punta Espada had me so fired up that if the Starter had waved us on, I’d have marched straight to the 1st tee for an “Emergency 18.” None of us wanted it to end. In fact, I swear even Quack-Quack would’ve grinned and said, “Let’s do it again, Toro.”

I've played hundreds of golf courses in my lifetime, and the only one that rivals the scenic beauty of Punta Espada is Pebble Beach. The views and flawless Nicklaus design are so mesmerizing, you almost forget about the lost balls or the three-putts. My only regret was not being able to play again the following day, but alas, Mercedes had reserved the course for the next two days for The Mercedes Trophy Cup.

Some notable facts about Punta Espada:

• Hosted three Champions Tour events, with Fred Couples setting the course record at 62.

• Repeatedly ranked by Golfweek as the #1 Best Course in the Caribbean and Mexico.

• Ranked #35 on Golf Digest’s 2021 list of the World’s 100 Greatest Golf Courses.

As I’ve said before, history will always rank Muirfield Village as #1 among Jack Nicklaus’s designs. But I would argue that Punta Espada stands as the premier public Nicklaus course in the world—an unforgettable experience that anyone can play.

I’ll end our golf adventure with Jack’s own words about his creation:

“Nowhere else in the world will there be a golf experience like this.”

Quack-Quack was kind enough to ride with us in the golf cart back to the St Regis, dropping us off at the hotel. He bid us goodbye with a parting, "great round Toro,"

Once back at the St. Regis, we fully committed to a few days of unapologetic luxury. A true five-star resort, the St. Regis leaves guests wanting for nothing—whatever you can imagine is either already there or arrives with the press of a button.

The photo below shows the sheer scale of the hotel and how beautifully the golf course embraces it. Just as Jack Nicklaus blended Punta Espada seamlessly into its natural surroundings, every detail of the St. Regis was designed with the same harmony in mind. Even the rooftop is covered in green turf, giving the impression that the resort itself is part of the golf course.

The St Regis Cap Cana Resort

As I mentioned earlier, our host treated us like royalty, placing us in a top-floor room with a sweeping view of the ocean. These rooftop suites come with an extra indulgence: a private walk-out pool and bar of your very own. (You can spot one of these rooftop pools on the left side of the hotel in the photo.) It’s the kind of setup that makes you wonder why you would leave the room for anything.

Our Roof Top Room

The resort is dotted with several restaurants, all overseen by Michelin-starred Chef Diego Muñoz. Whether you’re in the mood for a light bite poolside at Carey Bar or an elegant fine dining experience at Nina’s, every meal is crafted to impress. Surprisingly, our favorite turned out to be the simplest: lobster rolls and truffle fries at the St. Regis Bar; proof that even casual dining here feels like a culinary event.

One of our favorite experiences at the St. Regis was witnessing the nightly ritual of sabrage, beautifully captured in the photo below. The practice dates back to Napoleon Bonaparte, who, after returning from victorious campaigns, would draw his saber and lop the top off a bottle of champagne in celebration.

At every St. Regis around the world, this tradition lives on. Each evening at sunset, a champagne bottle is ceremoniously opened with a single strike of the blade. The head of the bottle flies off as the blade cuts cleanly through the glass with the cork still intact, and the champagne inside is perfectly drinkable. I was even presented with the severed bottle top as a keepsake and parting gift; a unique souvenir and a sparkling reminder of an unforgettable stay.

Sabrage

As I mentioned earlier, at the St. Regis, anything -food, drink, or otherwise- is just a button away. Guests are given a small box with a single button to carry while wandering the hotel, pools, or grounds. Press it, and within minutes, an attendant appears, ready to fulfill whatever you might need. It’s like having a magic wand in your pocket, only instead of spells, it delivers cocktails and lobster rolls.

The Button

By now, after showcasing a round of golf on perhaps the most scenic course in the world, paired with a five-star hotel that delivers anything you can dream of at the push of a button, you’re probably thinking, es mucho dinero, muchacho. And you’d be right.

A round at Punta Espada, coupled with a few nights at the St. Regis Cap Cana, is the very definition of a bucket-list trip; rivaled only by my journey to Scotland to play the Old Course. But if, just once in your life, you want to be treated like royalty—pampered, unforgettable, celebrated, as if you were the bride on her wedding day, then you must do both.

So in closing, if you’re a golfer headed to the islands, do yourself a favor: come play the Crown Jewel of the Caribbean. And while you’re there, bite the bullet and get yourself one of those magic buttons at the St. Regis—you’ll never want to give it back.

And if fitting both the golf course and the hotel into your travel budget feels like a stretch, shoot me an email at bgtriptips@gmail.com. With our new virtual travel agency, we just might be able to help you shave a few dineros off the cost—and still send you home with stories worthy of the Crown Jewel of the Caribbean and dreams of your very own magic button.